We made it across! Under the light of a full moon we pulled up the anchor at 4 a.m. on Sunday, December 18th and headed out the Lake Worth inlet into the open water. We had been forewarned that it might be a rough crossing but we all (in the group of 6 boats crossing together) decided it was a good enough window to give it a try. If it was too rough we could turn back. The reports we were getting from boats that left a couple hours before us had the wind blowing from the south at 15+ knots and 4-6 foot waves from the southeast. directly ahead of us. Note that West End is roughly barely south of due east (103°M) and the Gulf Stream current runs north at about 2-3 knots. In order to avoid being swept north by that current during the crossing we calculated that we would need to point the boat toward an imaginary point about 20 miles south of West End (about 120°M). We raised a double reefed mainsail as we approached the harbor entrance and soon found ourselves outside the jetty and close reaching into 4-6 foot waves into 20 knots of apparent wind and making a paltry 3-4 knots motorsailing into them. We shortly decided to put out about two thirds of our headsail (Jenny) to better balance the boat and attempt to increase our speed. We noticed that the remainder of the group, which left about 15 minutes ahead of us, was keeping a more northerly direction than ours as they were having difficulty pointing into the large waves. Two boats turned back as they felt the conditions were too rough for their boat or crew and we heard a motor vessel call for the Coast Guard as they were taking on water directly ahead of us.We quickly caught up with the group by falling off a little more north as we were the only boat in the group with canvas up at that time. As we approched the west wall of the Gulf Stream about 7 miles offshore, we found that to maintain our course of 103° we were pointing the boat 140°+. This put us in a close hauled position pointing directly into the waves. We were extremely happy with the boat’s performance as its hefty weight seemed to plow ever onward. By now we were settling in and realizing that we were actually quite comfortable, all things considered. Neither of us had any signs of seasickness and we began a routine of taking turns napping and keeping Otto (our autopilot) company.
As the day progressed, wind moderated and moved southwest as forecasted and we were able to gradually get ourselves back on the rhumb line (or “RUM” line as I prefer) toward the Bahamas. About lunchtime we shook out the reefs in the main and “Jenny” and were continuing to make 6.5-7 knots motorsailing.
At about 2:00 we heard the first boats on the VHF radio declare “Land Ho!” and we had our first sighting of land soon after that. Our first International passage with Lucky Peek looked like it was going to end very successfully. After studying the harbor chart two or three more times and seeing the entrance, we dropped our sails and motored the last half mile in.
The water had gone from the deep blue grey of deep ocean to to a bright turquiose of the shallow, sandy Bahama bank. The water in the marina looked like a swimming pool. Adding to our exhileration, the resort was having a Christmas party that was in full swing…Christmas carols and lights aglow were overwhelming our senses. We received our slip assignment and entered our slip ever so ungracefully with the wind on our stern, tied up quickly and headed to customs and immigration to get cleared in. We received an invitation to the complimentary Christmas Buffet and after checking in, stopped by for turkey and stuffing with all the fixins followed by a nice slice of coconut pumpkin pie. What a treat! Visit www.oldbahamabay.com to see some pics of the area. Of course, keep in mind that we aren’t staying in the Old Bahama Bay hotel, but we do get to enjoy the amenities while we’re on our boat in the marina.
We have spent the last couple of days cleaning up and lazing around the boat and resort waiting for the weather to clear up for the rest of our trip to the Abacos. The resort is actually still closed after Hurricane Wilma but there is a flurry of activity as they are opening on Friday. We are one of only about ten boats in the Marina and have full run of the resort. The weather is a little blustery and overcast but it is warm…about 73 degrees as I write this. We have enjoyed visiting with our new friends Robert and Carolyn on “Gypsy Common”, Peggy and Terry on “Attitude”, and Les and Candy on “Anejo”.
Yesterday we borrowed bikes from the Marina and rode into the village. The people are all helpful and friendly with bright smiles, but life here looks hard given the proximity to the summer hurricane track. It appears that there is not enough time between seasons to ever get ahead of the accumulating damage. A hike through the resort over to the western shore showed us what incredible destruction can be wrought upon homes from tidal surge and wind as we saw the ground floors of luxury homes completely gutted and their foundations undercut and washed out. We couldn’t help but extrapolate to the damage inflicted upon the Gulf Coast by Katrina. Be thankful for the things you have and try to remember how many in the world have lost so much and have so little.
We are planning to leave West End tomorrow for Green Turtle Cay with an overnight stop along the way at Great Sale Cay, an uninhabited Cay (pronounced “key”) about forty some miles east of here. If everything goes as planned we should be spending Christmas in Green Turtle and we will celebrate the day after with “Junkanoo”, an Island party which is much like a one day Mardi Gras with festivities, costumes, and parades ( I suspect there may also be Rum Punch involved). We are looking forward to a visit from the Nelsons at the end of the month. We are keeping our fingers crossed that they will be able to make it so we can ring in the New Year with them.
We wish everyone a safe and peaceful holiday season. We are thinking of our family and friends—missing them and hoping the best for all. If we don’t have a chance for another posting in the next week or so…
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
